Support My Indiegogo Campaign for a Costume Rigging Illustrated Book!!

CRI Book Cover

I finally put this project together! 

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Another few seconds of BTS fame, Explained… Thanks Beyonce!!

As my project management career in sewing related ventures continues to escalate, my recent Behind The Scene’s work on Beyoncé’s Formation World Tour Costumes in April 2016 at Raymond James Stadium, became public when Beyoncé, posted on Facebook, a BTS video, which included footage of Jessica and I seam ripping holes into the Balmain Bodysuits, Love working on a Gucci bejeweled bodysuit and flashes of some of the other projects we got to work on.

Here’s the link to the video Beyonce posted on her wall: Beyonce BTS The Formation World Tour Fashion

Here’s some commentary on some of the images you see in the video and what we were doing!

Seam Ripping the Balmain Bodysuit Armpits

Seam Ripping the Balmain Bodysuit Armpits

Opening The Seams

Opening The Seams

Allowing for arm movement

Allowing for arm movement

Me explaining what we were doing to the Balmain Bodysuits

Me explaining what we were doing to the Balmain Bodysuits

Explaining Gussets

Explaining Gussets

Adding Gussets

Adding Gussets

Jessica Demonstrates

Jessica Demonstrates

Love working on the Gucci adorn Black Bodysuits that haven't debuted as of yet

Love working on the Gucci adorn Black Bodysuits that haven’t debuted as of yet

Sue with one of the custom made face jewelry masks

Beyonce’s Wardrobe Crew with one of the custom made face jewelry masks

Beyonce's Wardrobe Crew Lead rinsing out the stockings

Beyonce’s Wardrobe Crew Lead rinsing out the stockings

The Initial Wardrobe Crew I put together to work on costumes for Beyonce during the 3+ weeks she was in Tampa rehearsing.

The initial Wardrobe Crew I put together to work on costumes for Beyonce during the 3+ weeks she was in Tampa rehearsing including myself, Love, Jessica and Renee, my go to girls!

If you are looking for a mobile wardrobe crew for an event, concert tour, onsite fabrication, film, theater tour, fashion show, wardrobe or sewing related specialty runner, wardrobe stylist or other mobile person with wardrobe, sewing, pattern making and on location fabrication skills, check out my facebook page: Mobile Wardrobe Services to put in a crew request or email me at info@mobilewardrobeservices.com

If you ARE a MOBILE seamstress, seamster, couturier, stitcher, tailor, wardrobe person, pattern maker, fabricator of costume or fashion, have a passport, mobile sewing kit and / or are willing to travel, join my facebook group to get called in on gigs like this! Mobile Sewing & Wardrobe Locals and Crew

Special Thanks again to Beyonce for including me and some of my local crew in your behind the scenes video! These were some of the most amazing high end fashions turned costume, I’ve worked on to date. I love getting paid to share my gifts, talents and helping others do the same.

Behind the Beyhive…

Behind The Scenes With Beyonce’s Bodysuits, Poofy Sleeves and more…

Profile of the DSquared Victorian Capelet

As an A List Seamstress, I was asked to help organize a local sewing crew to bring in on Beyonce Formation World Tour Rehearsal month at Raymond James Stadium in Tampa, FL to alter costumes for the tour. 

Gucci Ghost Print on a Neoprene like fabric with a matching print on sheer detail fabric

It took a massive crew about a week and 30 some trucks to get the epic 2 million dollar stage up and running. The stage itself is THE most complex I’ve ever seen. It had two giant monoliths in the center that rotated, opened and closed and a lower B stage that filled with water that they all danced in. 

Every night the dancers would run through various parts of the show in costume with a stand in for Beyonce, while she watched from a tent to critique the performance. 

There were literally millions of dollars in costumes and shoes which were guarded 24/7. We were told by her longtime crew that this show had some unique ways of doing things in regard to costuming. 

Typically they would get an epic piece custom made for Beyonce from a design house like Balmain, Gucci Ghost or DSquared2 for example and then a few dozen yards of matching fabric, which they would use to have matching costumes designed and fabricated for her 21 dancers. 


There were at least 12 sets of costumes for the tour that we were dealing with, of those 8 would need to be chosen for her first Miami tour date, but what they wore on a daily show basis could vary from one date to the next. 

Balmain bodysuits of lace and silk

We were told there will only two sets of costumes that would remain constant through out the tour, which included my favorite, the DSquared2 Black Victorian Capes with the large brimmed hats for the opening number paired with a shear lacy printed nude mesh bodysuit. 

DSquared Capelets with the lace printed mesh body suits

The other constant look hasn’t been revealed yet, so I’m going to keep that one under my hat! There were only 5 looks revealed in Miami on 4/27, so I would expect a few more to surface in Tampa on 4/29. 

Hundreds of boxes of shoes lined one part of the hallway just outside the dancers dressing room. Most were high to very high heels and boots including the tippy toe ballet style heels. Insane to walk in, let alone dance!! 

There were tables set up in the hallway, where her design team would gather. Every day, they’d discuss the designs pinned up on several large boards covered in dozens of designer drawings of costumes that were being delivered daily by the truck load. 


The design team, led by the feisty NYC celebrity stylist Marni Senofonte and included long time Beyonce Crew faithfuls. 

It was their task to organize and present each look to Beyonce and sort out which of the dozens of costume looks they would focus on. 

Dailey the dancers would come in and try things on, they’d take group photos of each look, which usually had some variations in design within each style and add all the photos to the mix. 

After the fittings, the costumes would get handed over to the seamstress team for alterations, which included everything from being taken in, having parts removed, adding gussets to convert fashion to dance wear, replacing one part with another, making them quick changeable and sew on and sew on. 

We knew we were working on labeled Bodysuits by Balmain, Capes by DSquared2 and custom fabrics from Gucci. It was hard not to cringe when you were being asked to tear apart a silk and lace bodysuit that was probably so insanely damn expensive, I didn’t even want to know the price! 

We got to meet Dean and Dan Caten, the twin designers from DSquared2, who stopped by to check on their designs. They were super nice and dressed alike. 

Every now and again Beyonce’s daughter Blue Ivy would wander into the sewing room to see what we were doing. Someone was always hot on her heals. You could hear her giggle as she rode her bike up and down the hallways. From time to time, you’d see her whiz by the doorway and wave from an office chair being towed by a sweet older lady who was often with her. She was adorable and you could tell how much she enjoyed wearing her collection of Disney princess dresses. 

All in all, this was definitely not the standard operating procedure I was used to when working on concert tours like this. They definitely had a different and unique way of doing things. 

Beyonce has become known for setting trend and blazing a trail that her many loyal fans will follow. In my humble opinion, I salute the stand she repeated takes for all of womankind. She’s outspoken and controversial, a girl after my own heart and like we all should be. If she were a man, no one would either notice or care. The world is watching. Those are tough shoes to fill. Kill it girl.

Rihanna’s Anti Tour… Was 50 Shades of Beige :(

Tour Date #2 of Rihanna’s Anti World Tour happened at Amalie Arena in Tampa, Florida on March 32, 2016, where there was definitely a lot going on.


I was working my usual seamstress gig, while designers from LA had flown in with a ton of bags to unpack and were still sorting through all of the different looks for the show. 

They had me cutting and sewing these one piece jump suits for the male dancers, with hoods for most of the day.

My assignment, for most of the day , was to cut and sew a second ser of these hooded jumpsuits for her 2 male dancers.


Towards the end of the day it got a little crazy and I had to put my sewing aside and help get the wardrobe crew get everything prepped for the show.

I loved this look, even though it was only a slight departure from all the beigeness…

As far as the over all costuming goes for this tour, I’m sorry to report, I was underwhelmed.

Can we talk?

I feel bad about saying this out loud, but I’ve worked for Rihanna before, as a local seamstress on her Diamonds tour and I thought those costumes were fabulous.

It just seemed like… a lot of beige…???  

Did anyone else notice that or was it just me?

Maybe they will be adding some more color since the second night of the tour? I’m not sure what was going on there but it was literally “50. Shades. Of Beige.”
😦

How to get your own fabric designs professionally printed by the yard!

How to get your own fabric designs professionally printed by the yard!

A few years ago I was wondering how to get custom fabrics made for clients who were asking for a one of a kind design.

Well I’ve since found and used 2 different ways to do this, even if you only need 1 yard of fabric!

The first way is a little more hands on and the quality is good, but you’ll need to have some basic design skills. You should be able to figure out this DIY method online through a website called Spoonflower.

There are some other websites out there, but this one, I have actually used myself to print a fabric out of my Psycho Seamstress logo, which I cut out and use as labels to sew onto clothing I’ve made. You can design fabrics for yourself or to sell to others for a commission using this site.

Here’s the link to my Psycho Seamstress logo design:
http://www.spoonflower.com/designs/2316838-psycho-seamstress-skull-scissors-half-brick-by-psychoseamstress
Feel free to buy some!! LOL

Not only can Spoonflower print your designs on several types of fabric, but you can also use the images to create wallpaper, wrapping paper or stickers! It was super easy and super cool!

The second way is easier if you know what you want, but don’t exactly have the graphic design skills to make it happen. It’s a little more expensive than the DIY method, but the results are stunning and very high end.

I use a company called Solid Stone Fabrics. This company has several dozen gorgeous fabrics to choose from including spandex, swimwear fabrics, silk chiffons, organza, duck, jersey, neoprene, fabrics with sequins, foiled color, metallics, even carpet!! If you contact them, they can ship you out a swatch ring of some amazing high end fabrics you’ll have to choose from. Ask for Luke Harris, he’s one of the owners and the main sales guy. Tell him I sent you!

Here’s a link to their website:
http://www.solidstonefabrics.com

Solid Stone will assign a graphic designer to your project and THEY will create a graphic design file to your specifications, for a reasonable set up fee.
Once your design is initially approved by you in an email, they will send you a sample of the design printed on the fabric of your choice. Once you approve the sample, you can order it as needed with a one yard minimum.

Using custom designed fabrics is a great way to raise your price tag. You can create a much more unique and cohesive fashion collection by using the same pattern or design on multiple items in different fabrics. Finding coordinating designs and fabrics on the open market can be a challenge. When you design your own fabrics, you can create matching stretch jeans, silky tops, make sheer cover ups paired with swimwear and more, just like all of the high end brands do and order your fabrics as needed.

If you’d like more insider tips on how to excel as a fashion designer, join my group on Facebook called “Clothing Designer Resources” and feel free to share your best connections, collections and advice!!

You can contact me at Gina@PsychoSeamstress.com

15 Things You Can Put In A Mobile Sewing Kit And 2 Ways To Create a Part Time Sewing Job…

mansons pants

Repairs to Marilyn Manson’s Pants at the Hard Rock Live in Orlando, Fl

A lot of people use Craigslist to offer their sewing services, but what I’ve done has separated me from the crowd by offering mobile services. I get calls, all the time for last minute, emergency and urgent mobile sewing gigs. If you know how to sew, do laundry, iron, steam clothing and help people get dressed or quick change and you’re interested in making some extra cash, pack yourself a sewing “gig bag” and put an ad on Craigslist to offer mobile sewing services to take your show on the road!

Here’s How I did it:

By using a free Craigslist ad, I began posting in 2008, it helped me to consistently build my sewing business, to the point where I could quit my “day job”, sew for a living, set my own schedule and pick and choose my work.  My Craigslist ad lead me to many amazing opportunities. I used the “creative services” category for all my posts and included photos of my best work, which I updated frequently and reposted as needed, when the old ads expired.

My Craigslist ad got me the “in” I needed, by being mobile and led me directly to my sewing work on A List Concert Tours, Broadway Theater Productions, working with Celebrities, Fashion Shows and even Weddings. I have acquired many private clients, built an impressive resume and created a photo portfolio of my sewing work, which I use all over social media.

Here’s what I carried in my mobile sewing kit; There are all kinds of divided containers, fishing tackle and craft boxes and rolling suitcases you can use to keep everything mobile and organized.

A list of items for a basic kit:

1. Reliable Portable Sewing Machine and Serger if needed. I use and old school Kenmore from the 70’s and a mid priced Singer Serger, which I usually leave in my car unless they request it. Computerized sewing machines tend to get fussy if you move them around too much, so I recommend a simple basic sewing machine with a straight and zig zag stitch. (I used to use a $200 Brother Project Runway Special Edition Sewing Machine for 3 years that I paid $50 for, on sale at Walmart!!)
2. Scissors for paper and fabric
3. Seam Rippers
4. An Assortment of Thread (I like the Geuterman box of 26 from Joann Fabrics http://www.joann.com/gutermann-26-spool-thread/9284811.html#close)
5. Elastic in black and white in various widths.
6. Notions including snaps in all sizes especially “whopper poppers” (the quarter size), hooks and eyes/bars in small to large sizes, buttons, etc
6. Velcro in at least black and white
7. Sewing Pins, Pin Cushion
8. Large Safety Pins
9. Tailor’s Chalk wheel or other marking devices for alterations
10. Hand Sewing Needle Assortment
11. Lint Roller
12. 120″ tape measure
13. Hem Gauge
14. Flashlight (in case you end up working backstage or quick change)
15. Sewing Apron, cargo shorts/pants or fanny pack bag for having supplies on you

Other items I’ve been known to carry:

1. Pattern Making Materials and Supplies
2. Small sizes of Laundry Supplies including an assortment of stain removing agents, baking soda, salt (for use with fabric dye) vinegar, Ivory Bar Soap, Hair Spray (removes ink), denture cleaner (removes dingy from whites), magic eraser, 90% alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, etc
3. Steamer, Iron, Spray Starch
4. Rubber gloves in case I have to dye fabric or deal with a smelly mess
5. Muslin, jersey, denim scraps
6. Double Stick Wardrobe Tape
7. Zippers

Here’s a basic price list for mobile sewing services:

$16+ an hour for dressing and quick change assistance and general services like laundry, ironing and steaming clothing or costumes that don’t require you to bring anything with you. Just show up and work.

$25 an hour for sewing related and runner services, which can include picking up fabric, notions and other materials or supplies needed by the client. I usually include gas, tolls and mileage as long as it’s not excessive. Otherwise you can add those expenses.

$35 an hour to show up and sew, make patterns or do draping on their provided sewing equipment, etc.

$50 an hour to bring your own mobile sewing equipment and supplies to sew on their site or location.

Time and a half for over 8 hours is customary, however overtime pay after a 10 hour work day is the law.
“Florida law states that a legal day’s work for a manual laborer is 10 hours (FL Stat. Sec. 448.01). Unless there is a written contract that specifies otherwise, the employer is not permitted to require manual laborers to work a longer day without extra pay.
• At the end of a workweek, all overtime hours are credited as compensatory leave at the rate of 11/2 hours’ credit for each hour of overtime worked.”

Some clients ask for a day rate, but be careful with that. I’ve worked 40 hours in 3 days before on an emergency project and you don’t want to screw yourself by settling for less before you know what your getting into. A $1200 pay check vs $2500 pay check is a big difference when you just worked 3 days in a row with only 3-4 hours of sleep in between.

If your going to give a day rate I would recommend you start with a quote of $400 for 8.5 hours of work (with a 30 minute lunch and 2 – 15 minute breaks, which is the law) and go up from there. If the client advises the project will be more like 10-12 or more hours give an hourly overtime rate of $75 (time and a half) for every hour after 8.5 hours.

Make sure you get decent breaks!!

Don’t put yourself in the bargain bin!!

You have a specialized skill that is worthy of a decent wage, especially when you’ve got mobile equipment and skills they need when they are in a bind.

You can download a free app called “Invoice ASAP” and make getting paid by cash or check at the end of the day, a condition of your services.

Another way to I used Craigslist ads was to offer Mobile Sewing Lessons.

I would offer the following services, but not post a price. That way people would have to contact me for the price. I would also take into account, where they were located. If they were farther away I’d charge a little extra.

I offered help in the clients home with everything from, how to:

1. Thread and use their machine
2. Go on field trips with them to pick out patterns, fabric and notions
3. Cut out their fabrics
4. Make patterns from their own existing clothes
5. Make patterns from scratch
6. Alter patterns
7. Sew their project
8. Alter clothing
9. Upcycle clothing
10. Repair clothing
11. Project Assistance

My clients included home school kids, teens, college students, fashion students, men and women of all ages.

I charged $100 (cash) for 4 hours minimum, which was usually plenty of time to complete a simple project or work on an ongoing one. Extra hours were $25 an hour

Some clients were one time only, while others became regular clients

I would bring all my own mobile materials and supplies, just in case they didn’t have everything we’d need.

I use a rolling suitcase that fits everything I need and put my sewing machine on top of that, making it easy to transport.

Sometimes clients would come to my house too, it just depended upon their needs.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me!

If you’re located in the Cental Florida area and would like to join my sewing group on Facebook I frequently post sewing jobs there, of all kinds and so can you!! It’s called “Florida Costume and Fashion Designers and Fabricators”

You can follow me on Facebook at Psycho Seamstress https://www.facebook.com/PsychoSeamstress

I am Psycho Seamstress on most social media platforms including Twitter, Instagram, Pinterest, Instructables, Tumblr, Google Plus, ProductionHub, Studio53, LinkedIn and Slated.

I am Gina Vincenza Van Epps aka Psycho Seamstress! Http://ginav8.wix.com/psychoseamstress/ Gina@PsychoSeamstress.com

 

 

 

 

 

Are You Male and Over 250 Lbs? I Need Your Help!!

big and tal

Please help me collect some real world measurements for men who are 250 Lbs or more. We are designing trendy clothing for Men who are 2X – 7X, with special attention to short, average and tall height categories. Please go get a long sewing tape measure and maybe even a friend who can help you take some measurements and click the link to this anonymous measurement survey. Men’s Measurements over 250 Lbs

The fashion industry’s standard ASTM Men’s Measurement Chart does not extent past size 4X. Therefore, we are creating our own and need real life measurments to create the correct algorithms to extend this “industry standard” sizing chart to include real world people who are currently being ignored by the Fashion Industry.

I have personally worked as a Men’s Stylist and Ferragamo Specialist at Bloomingdale’s, where there were many potential clients I had to turn away, because Top Designer’s worldwide, ignore their size. Many of my loyal clients have been women who are plus size and simply can not find clothing to fit them properly, but men have even less to choose from than women.

Men and boys in my opinion are under served by the fashion industry. In the last 2 years after quitting my day job to become a designer and seamstress full time, I have had several Men approach me for sewing lessons and help in making their own patterns and prototypes for fashion. I noticed a trend that lot of men were becoming involved in fashion because there is such a large gap between men and women’s fashions. I found another example of this gap when I would go to the fabric store looking for patterns for men and boys. For the longest time, I would have to buy women’s patterns and alter them to fit a man.

The good news is that male fashion is evolving! Designers are coming to me for help in creating new and trendy fashions for boys and men.

That is exciting!

Please Share this post with all the fashion seeking men you know who’d like to make a difference in men’s fashion!