Garment Designers Pre Production Checklist

For the last several years I have been balancing my time between fashion and costuming for companies including Disney and Universal Theme Parks.

Since 2011, I have worked with over 50 celebrity clients like Beyonce and was featured in her Formation World Tour Behind The Scenes Fashion video.
I've worked on costumes for Justin Bieber's Believe Film, Taylor Swift's Red Tour, Rihanna's Diamonds and Anti World Tours and many, many more.
Last year I even restored Janis Joplin's Cape for the Hard Rock International, which is now on display in San Francisco, CA. You can read all about these adventures in my other blog posts.

I now have my own design and production house, where I specialize in pre production work, wholesale fabric sourcing and managing domestic and international production runs on all kinds of garments, shoes, bags and even tactical and combat training gear through House Of Vincenza.

As the Founder and President of Orlando Fashion District we've taken on the mission to make Orlando a Fashion Destination and to support and encourage fashion designers everywhere.

Designers hire to help them take their designs from concept to creation and into production, many of them aren't exactly sure how the process works.

To help you understand how this process works, I created this checklist of things you need to start working on, if you have designs you'd like to reproduce.

  1. Solid Concept – this can come in the form of sketches, photos or even an existing garment you'd like to use as inspiration for your designs. The more detailed the better. Refining these details in the process will cost more money than having them figured out in advance.
  2. Pattern – this has to be created in order to build a prototype of your design. It will be the foundation of everything and may need to be altered several times to get it perfect.
  3. Fabrics – using the fabrics you'd like to go into production with, is the best way to build your prototypes. If you don't have them sorted out, custom printed and sourced in sample quantities prior to moving forward, it could delay the process. Changing fabrics later means making another prototype. Skipping this step can be an expensive mistake if the production fabrics don't behave, look or feel the same way as your prototype fabrics. If you "can't afford" to make a new prototype, then you need to rework your funding.
  4. Notions – zippers, buttons, snaps, elastics, threads and any other materials you'll be using for your design needs to be sourced up front in sample quantities. These items will all need to be tested as part of your prototype. Changing this later means another prototype will need to be made in order to avoid production problems cause by these last minute changes that won't work right in your design.
  5. Labels – start working on your clothing label designs at the same time as your prototypes or it could delay production. These can take a few weeks to get these the way you'd like.
  6. Prototypes – this will be the first reality test of your designs. Don't expect it to be perfect the first time. This process can take several revisions. Be prepared for that. Emotionally and Financially. It might seem like a long and expensive process, but if you fail to test everything here and now and then move forward into production it could cost you a lot more time and money to go back and correct something after you've had hundreds of them made wrong or in a way that doesn't fit or work properly.
  7. Tech Pack – Once you've got a solid design prototype you can move on to the next step, which is creating all of the technical specifications of your garment. This is commonly referred to as a "tech pack" in the industry. Moving forward into production without this, especially with a new provider can leave a lot of things open to their interpretation. Not a good plan. Technical specs will clearly define and communicate to the production house, how your garment should be assembled, what types of seams go where, what kind and colors of thread, how to install your elastic, notions and so on are all explained in this document. Look at it as the assembly instruction that go along with your pattern and parts. What you get without it is an expensive crap shoot.
  8. Digitizing – This is the process of converting your paper patterns into an auto cad program like Gerber. If you've got access to someone who uses this or a similar program in the beginning stages it can save time and money down the road. It can be used to create your grading instead of having it done by hand. You can also use it to creat your "pattern markers" or "cut sheets" which I will talk about more in my next post.
  9. Grading – This is the process of creating all of the sizes for each design. It can be small, medium and large or numbered sizes. There are ASTM.org industry standards that can help determine these guidelines based on algorithms of global sizing standards. (There's also a thing called "vanity" sizing. A lot of brands run big so that you will fit into a smaller size and hopefully buy it because we all wish we were a size smaller. Ugh. It's a thing.) Making a sample of each size before you go into production with it is an important part of proper grading. Having an ASTM dimensioned fit model for each size will help make your sizing fit average size buyers.
  10. Production – Deciding on a production house is the next step. I will talk more about this in my next posts. Domestic production in the USA vs International Production is a complicated decision. Staying in the USA is possible for most items, but expensive compared to international options. Why? Mainly because the minimum wage in the USA is several times higher than other countries. There are also fabric issues to consider. Going international means it will be more cost effective to use fabrics the factory has either readily available or choosing from what they can source for you. Getting fabric samples from your production house in advance can streamline the pre production process.

Some of the other things you can do with all of these prototypes is enter runway shows, do photo shoots, trunk shows and start working on pre marketing your designs.

My next post will be about going into the production process. I'll write about it from a USA domestic perspective and from an international perspective.

Good Talk!

Got any questions?
Did I leave anything out? Gina@HouseOfVincenza.com

Stay Tuned.

Advertisements

Now Offering Consulting Services, Wardrobe Styling, Speaking and Teaching for Fashion, Wardrobe and Costume Related Projects, Worldwide.

ginaRecently, I was head hunted on LinkedIn and asked to apply for a costume related department head job at a large theme park opening in another country.  The duties were similar to what I do now, between my work on concert tours and at Universal Theme Parks. I was later told, I was “overqualified” AND that they didn’t think they could “afford” me. I was initially shocked by these two labels and their perception of me, based on the work I’ve done so far.

There are times when other people’s opinions matter and times when they don’t. (For me that’s MOST of the time!!)  In this particular case, it inspired me to realize, it was time to reach higher and raise my price tag.

I thought long and hard about where I was in my career. I set many goals for myself, which this “rejection” made me realize, I’d already achieved. Been There, Done That! Sewing for living, was the vehicle that got me where I am today, but it’s not something I want to physically do on a daily basis anymore. I want to do more designing, styling, project management and consulting work.

img_2621Over the last few years, I created a ton of social media that consistently leads people to call or email me on a daily basis for mobile services in Orlando, FL and beyond. It’s a niche I created. If you google “Orlando Seamstress” or a few other related key words, my Psycho Seamstress Social Media dominates the search results. I did that using SEO, key words and tagging techniques I learned in my website marketing days.
Due to my work for multiple A List celebrities on a regular basis, sewing costumes for Justin Bieber, Taylor Swift, Rihanna and most recently Beyonce, I have become a very well known and highly demanded expert at helping out-of-towners connect to everything they need, on short notice, to successfully execute multi million dollar shows, on the fly. Because of all of the high end work I do, everyone I know in this business, wants to work with me, which has helped me create a very large network of talent, vendors and suppliers, who I keep on speed dial and will take my calls after hours.
Bey Crew

Here’s the wardrobe crew I put together to work on costumes for Beyonce during the 3+ weeks she was in Tampa rehearsing.

There are some interesting dynamics going on in the entertainment industry right now. High fashion is becoming the trend on a lot of concert tours with Beyonce leading the charge on that, in a way I’ve never seen before.  Meanwhile, costumes are having a huge influence on fashion, as evidenced by the now mega industry of cosplay with “cons” popping up everywhere. It has become hard for me to keep myself grounded on one side of the fence or the other. I’ve had to learn how to balance two very different animals to earn a living. Quite frankly, I don’t know of anyone besides myself, who has both the experience (in fashion, concert tour, theme park, theater and costumes) and flexibility I have. All of my mentors and top go to people are tied down to running a traditional brick and mortar type business, where as, I am not. Becoming Mobile and ready, willing and able to travel, caters to a very underserved clientele. I can literally fit everything I need to work with, into my 2 seat, hatch back sports car (including a full size garment rack, dress form, sewing machine, serger and suitcase full of supplies with room to spare) and be on the scene in a matter of hours. (Putting all of that stuff on a plane for a short gig is a literal and logistical pain in the arse, half of it would get confiscated by security and the rest would be at risk for being damaged or lost. Some of my clients really don’t even know what they need to get the job done, but Psycho Seamstress just sounds like the perfect solution!!) After assessing the situation, I can make a few phone calls and have an entire crew, locked, loaded and ready to rock and roll.

If you think you’ve got an impossible project, with an ambitious deadline, here are some recent examples of my “air traffic control” type skills…

January 2016: Matrix Destination, Grand Finale Fashion Show, Orlando, FL 

matrix-renatoI was hired by the event company to assist, up and coming NYC Art Couture Fashion Designer Renato Dicent. (An amazing and impressive young man, with some cutting edge designs and skills that got the attention of Heidi Klum, Madonna and More!)
The Assignment:
  • to create several last minute dresses to coordinate with some over the top hairstyles needed for the avant garde fashion show in less than 3 days. Challenge Accepted
  • In order to execute this seemingly impossible task, I stayed on location for the next 3 days to work with Renato and his NYC team and coordinated everything he needed, from shopping for specialty fabrics with my local discounts, providing sewing related equipment, materials and supplies, coordinating off site specialty services and finding a 24 hour pattern maker, runner and sewing team, who had their own mobile equipment and could come and work with us onsite. renato-dress-gina
  • I accomplished all of the above, while sewing one of the dresses myself and helping on multiple others.
“The fabulous opportunity to work with Gina for NYC designer, Renato Dicent to create avant-garde wardrobes for the Matrix Destinations’ Grand Finale Fashion Show in Florida was one of the most incredible opportunities in my life! Gina is an amazing, skillfully, creatively talented and enthusiastic person. We were a great buddy in the creative team to make many avant-garde dresses with a super tight deadline. Gina fast became a key person in creation, the sublime show would not happen without her. I was honored to work with Gina and hope from the bottom of my heart to work together again. I can’t say how much I am looking forward to seeing her phenomenal future in the creative world!”
– Sho Konishi, Fashion Designer, www.sho-konishi.com

April 2016: Beyonce Formation World Tour, Onsite Costume Fabrication, Raymond James Stadium, Tampa, FL 

  • Due to my extensive database of local sewing beyonce-formation-world-tourtalent, I was asked to assemble a team of several local pattern makers and stitchers, who had mobile equipment and could work on location for 3 weeks consecutively.
  • We provided onsite alterations, costume rigging, fashion to costume conversions, pattern making and fabrication on hundreds of costumes for this tour.
Adding Gussets

Adding Gussets

  • I was featured in Beyoncé’s Behind The Scenes “BTS Formation World Tour (Fashion)” Video, which she posted on YouTube and Facebook, where I was interviewed about what we were doing to convert her high end fashions to costumes at about the 1:20 mark.

Here’s the link for that… Beyonce BTS Formation World Tour Fashion Video

“Gina continues to be our go-to supplier and resource for all things costume related.  Her experience in A-List wardrobe maintenance and design is extensive. Gina has sewing / textile / accessory resources across the country making her a “one stop shop” for assistance no matter where our clients are located within the USA.  If you want to make one call and solve all your costuming / wardrobe / apparel needs then Gina is the call to make.”
– Megan Duckett, Founder and President, Sew What? | Rent What?, Rancho Dominguez, CA

 June 2016: Microsoft Corporate Event, Amway Center, Orlando, FL

microsoftI was hired by the event company to provide a variety of services which included:
  • Shop for and tailor to fit, a man’s suit for their EVP onsite, so he would not have to leave his hotel suite.
  • Put together a mobile design and sewing team to fabricate costumes onsite, to be worn by their keynote speakers during an event at Amway Center.
  • I stayed onsite for 5 days to design, shop, fabricate, coordinate outside services and overall manage this project, which culminated in making final adjustments to costumes, moments before they hit the stage, all executed under their initial budget allocations.

Other Projects I consult on:

I consult with film makers, photographers, theme parks and show creators on getting pre production wardrobe related concepts and realistic budget numbers together including:
  • Concept Design & Illustration by Award Winning CDG Talent
  • Fabrication Estimates & Options from FL to NY to LA
  • Sourcing or Creating Custom Fabrics & Materials to fit any theme
  • Off The Rack Wardrobe Options
  • Wardrobe Styling and Personal Shopping for Top Executives & Celebrities Worldwide
  • Rental Costume Options
  • Wardrobe Crew Coordinator for Touring, On Location or Head Of Wardrobe jobs worldwide
“I am Alex Lorre…(film) producer belonging to (Hollywood) Union. I recently had the pleasure of working with Gina for nearly a year on a very high budget Space Horror Film script. She vetted award winning costume designers, the worlds largest fabricator of space suits, researched production houses, rental costume options and helped us create an archive of futuristic costume design concepts, high tech and cutting edge fabric samples and more. She is relentlessly ambitious and it would be my pleasure to have her on my team in the future. She is a pleasure to work with. I would rank her as one of the best Costume designers we had in our previous projects. Gina is the type of person you want leading from the front. Furthermore, she is what I consider to be a “hard charger”. She outshines her peers in whatever she chooses to accomplish. Gina has always impressed me as a bright, articulate, enthusiastic, reliable person. Should you have any questions regarding working with Gina please feel free to contact me at alorre2002@gmail.com”  
“Let me say that working with Gina on past projects has been a pleasure. Gina has proven to be very reliable, talented and extremely knowledgeable in her craft.  She would be a valuable asset to any project. I not only recommend her, but I would hire her again with out reservation.”
– George Catalano – Florida Stunt Man, Actor, Film Maker, TopCat Film Productions
“Working with Gina is an experience.  She definitely raises the bar on any project she is involved with.  You can plan on being blown away by her work. It will exceed your expectations, many times over. I hope she is available for all my projects.”
– Ken Barr –  Author, We Are The Road Crew, Florida Film Maker , Ken Barr Films, Main Stage Manager, 70,000 Tons Of Metal Cruise
13620231_698239740314598_624857886211809706_n
My Mobile Wardrobe Services database, site, Facebook PageFacebook Group and extensive LinkedIn Network allows me to help others staff sewing, touring and head of wardrobe positions world wide.  Looking for crew or staff?
I can give you the names of multiple qualified people willing to travel, tour or relocate for wardrobe positions worldwide.

High End Repair and Restoration Coordinator

If you are:costumes
  • on tour with valuable fashions or costumes you need repaired while on the road
  • a museum, cafe, attraction or otherwise display historical and memorabilia costumes or fashion
  • have a valuable private collection in need of repair or restoration
With a:
  • High risk of causing further damage by moving said items
  • High Cost of Security or Insurance Expense to move
I can:
  • travel world wide to where these items are located
  • professionally photograph and document the issues in question
  • provide a written report and recommendation for possible solutions
  • provide a list of qualified repair experts, who can travel to or be retained
  • or possibly repair the items onsite, myself

Wardrobe Stylist / Fashion and BTS Blogger

kent-stetson-handbag-herb-clutch-3

Kent Stetson “Herb Clutch” to be featured in a teen horror film I am working on.

Once I started working for celebrities, behind the scenes, having influence on and making decisions about things that would be seen on film, stage, runway or at events, designers started sending me fashion and accessories to use, wear and or asking me to give them away to people of influence in their target market.

If you’d like me to consider your brand for placement email me at Gina@PsychoSeamstress.com
Some of the brands I’m working with right now include:

CRI Book CoverSpeaking and Teaching Engagements

This year I finally decided to write a book I’ve been threatening to do for several years on a behind the scenes art known as “costume rigging”. Click here to support my Indiegogo “Costume Rigging Illustrated” book campaign. 
  • You can support me here by ordering a copy for as little as $10
  • You can book me through this indiegogo funding campaign for a limited time for speaking or teaching engagements, or just have dinner with me to pick my brain.
I am willing to travel anywhere worldwide to speak or teach about what I’ve done in entertainment, fashion, costuming or any other related subject of my expertise.

Don’t assume you can’t afford me or that I am overqualified for your project.

img_3083

I don’t always take every job myself and I may be able to help you find the right person.
Take this survey, to see if there’s something I can help you with!!
I’ll give you a free consultation to evaluate your project via email, phone, Skype or in person and a written proposal on options to meet your needs.
img_3082

Another few seconds of BTS fame, Explained… Thanks Beyonce!!

As my project management career in sewing related ventures continues to escalate, my recent Behind The Scene’s work on Beyoncé’s Formation World Tour Costumes in April 2016 at Raymond James Stadium, became public when Beyoncé, posted on Facebook, a BTS video, which included footage of Jessica and I seam ripping holes into the Balmain Bodysuits, Love working on a Gucci bejeweled bodysuit and flashes of some of the other projects we got to work on.

Here’s the link to the video Beyonce posted on her wall: Beyonce BTS The Formation World Tour Fashion

Here’s some commentary on some of the images you see in the video and what we were doing!

Seam Ripping the Balmain Bodysuit Armpits

Seam Ripping the Balmain Bodysuit Armpits

Opening The Seams

Opening The Seams

Allowing for arm movement

Allowing for arm movement

Me explaining what we were doing to the Balmain Bodysuits

Me explaining what we were doing to the Balmain Bodysuits

Explaining Gussets

Explaining Gussets

Adding Gussets

Adding Gussets

Jessica Demonstrates

Jessica Demonstrates

Love working on the Gucci adorn Black Bodysuits that haven't debuted as of yet

Love working on the Gucci adorn Black Bodysuits that haven’t debuted as of yet

Sue with one of the custom made face jewelry masks

Beyonce’s Wardrobe Crew with one of the custom made face jewelry masks

Beyonce's Wardrobe Crew Lead rinsing out the stockings

Beyonce’s Wardrobe Crew Lead rinsing out the stockings

The Initial Wardrobe Crew I put together to work on costumes for Beyonce during the 3+ weeks she was in Tampa rehearsing.

The initial Wardrobe Crew I put together to work on costumes for Beyonce during the 3+ weeks she was in Tampa rehearsing including myself, Love, Jessica and Renee, my go to girls!

If you are looking for a mobile wardrobe crew for an event, concert tour, onsite fabrication, film, theater tour, fashion show, wardrobe or sewing related specialty runner, wardrobe stylist or other mobile person with wardrobe, sewing, pattern making and on location fabrication skills, check out my facebook page: Mobile Wardrobe Services to put in a crew request or email me at info@mobilewardrobeservices.com

If you ARE a MOBILE seamstress, seamster, couturier, stitcher, tailor, wardrobe person, pattern maker, fabricator of costume or fashion, have a passport, mobile sewing kit and / or are willing to travel, join my facebook group to get called in on gigs like this! Mobile Sewing & Wardrobe Locals and Crew

Special Thanks again to Beyonce for including me and some of my local crew in your behind the scenes video! These were some of the most amazing high end fashions turned costume, I’ve worked on to date. I love getting paid to share my gifts, talents and helping others do the same.

How to get your own fabric designs professionally printed by the yard!

How to get your own fabric designs professionally printed by the yard!

A few years ago I was wondering how to get custom fabrics made for clients who were asking for a one of a kind design.

Well I’ve since found and used 2 different ways to do this, even if you only need 1 yard of fabric!

The first way is a little more hands on and the quality is good, but you’ll need to have some basic design skills. You should be able to figure out this DIY method online through a website called Spoonflower.

There are some other websites out there, but this one, I have actually used myself to print a fabric out of my Psycho Seamstress logo, which I cut out and use as labels to sew onto clothing I’ve made. You can design fabrics for yourself or to sell to others for a commission using this site.

Here’s the link to my Psycho Seamstress logo design:
http://www.spoonflower.com/designs/2316838-psycho-seamstress-skull-scissors-half-brick-by-psychoseamstress
Feel free to buy some!! LOL

Not only can Spoonflower print your designs on several types of fabric, but you can also use the images to create wallpaper, wrapping paper or stickers! It was super easy and super cool!

The second way is easier if you know what you want, but don’t exactly have the graphic design skills to make it happen. It’s a little more expensive than the DIY method, but the results are stunning and very high end.

I use a company called Solid Stone Fabrics. This company has several dozen gorgeous fabrics to choose from including spandex, swimwear fabrics, silk chiffons, organza, duck, jersey, neoprene, fabrics with sequins, foiled color, metallics, even carpet!! If you contact them, they can ship you out a swatch ring of some amazing high end fabrics you’ll have to choose from. Ask for Luke Harris, he’s one of the owners and the main sales guy. Tell him I sent you!

Here’s a link to their website:
http://www.solidstonefabrics.com

Solid Stone will assign a graphic designer to your project and THEY will create a graphic design file to your specifications, for a reasonable set up fee.
Once your design is initially approved by you in an email, they will send you a sample of the design printed on the fabric of your choice. Once you approve the sample, you can order it as needed with a one yard minimum.

Using custom designed fabrics is a great way to raise your price tag. You can create a much more unique and cohesive fashion collection by using the same pattern or design on multiple items in different fabrics. Finding coordinating designs and fabrics on the open market can be a challenge. When you design your own fabrics, you can create matching stretch jeans, silky tops, make sheer cover ups paired with swimwear and more, just like all of the high end brands do and order your fabrics as needed.

If you’d like more insider tips on how to excel as a fashion designer, join my group on Facebook called “Clothing Designer Resources” and feel free to share your best connections, collections and advice!!

You can contact me at Gina@PsychoSeamstress.com

10 Questions to Ask When Shopping for a Production Facility for Fashion

For the last few years, I have been consulting with clients who are just beginning in fashion. They usually come to me with a pile of sketches or inspiration photos of garments they want to create and have no idea what journey they are about to embark upon to get from these humble beginnings to a finished product, ready to sell. The process can literally take months. (here is an outline of THAT process… How to Start a Fashion Line Realistically and Ethically)  Although there are many steps that have to be complete before you can go into production, here are the steps to take once the design and prototype process has been completed. Doing this yourself is a big job, but here are some basic questions to ask when shopping for a factory to produce your clothing:

1. Are they a fair wage factory?

Chances are, if it’s in a foreign country they aren’t and won’t answer honestly. Nowadays people are asking more and more questions about where and how it’s made and are judging your line accordingly. People ARE willing to pay more to ensure they aren’t endorsing slavery. (Click this link to find out how many slaves work for you) ETHICAL production is available at an affordable price CAN be found if you contact Organizations like Fashion Hope. They can will assist you worldwide, in finding a production facility that doesn’t involve human trafficking, slavery, forced or child labor. Tell them I sent you or contact me for help with this.

cropped-toplogohomepage.png

2. Where are they located?

This factor is important for a number of reasons:
– Get shipping estimates to and from the factory, those expenses should be considered as part of your production cost in both directions.
– You will need to ship them patterns, prototypes and materials and they will be shipping you material samples, garment samples and finished products. – — Import fees should also be considered, estimated and added to your bottom line.

3. Can you affordably visit their facility?

I highly recommend you do so. Having a face to face with your factory and touring the facility is an important part of making a smart investment decision and maintaining a profitable relationship. Go with your gut. If anything seems sketchy it’s better to keep looking and write off the trip expenses than to invest thousands of dollars in a production house that doesn’t have their act together, too much could go wrong.

4. Do they have all the right sewing machines to make your garments?

If they have a website make sure they are currently making similar items. It’s unreasonable to expect one factory to sew your entire collection if you’ve got jeans, dresses, t shirts and swimwear. Each of those items uses different sewing machines and fabrics to construct. It’s better to find a factory that specializes in one type of garment for each item in your collection if they differ greatly in how they need to be constructed.

5. Can they send you samples of their work on similar garments?

Ask them to mail (even if you have to pay for them) you similar items and check the quality of their work inside and out.
– Look for dropped stitches or stitch defects that mean their equipment needs to be better maintained or that quality control might be an issue.

Here’s an example of what a stitch defect looks like… it can eventually unravel and cause problems with the construction of your garment, making it open up at the seam.


– Check to make sure the fabric is cut properly and on the grain and is perfectly straight up and down where it needs to be in the garment. If anything is cut crooked it will not drape properly and when you wash it, it will get “wonky”. Here is an example of a cuff that was either cut off the grainline or sewn in a bit crooked. When you wash this item it will go sideways and then not drape properly.

Off Grain Banding

This is an example of the bottom band of a sweatshirt that was either cut off the grain of the knit or was sewn in crooked. See how the knit of the Grey Knit is not straight up and down to the Yellow Knit.

Wash the item(s) if you can to see how it holds up. If they aren’t cutting the pattern out properly it can ruin an entire production run.
I have a friend who had a 3 piece outfit made in China. They cut one piece wrong and it couldn’t be salvaged. The whole outfit had to be scratched for that season even though the other two pieces were fine.   That was about a $5k loss.

6. Can they provide fabric and notions sourced locally or do they have adequate storage for you to send them the fabrics and notions you’ve sourced for production?

Get samples of what they have access to before you have anything made in their fabrics. Get swatches and samples of their fabrics, notions, buttons, garment tags, even elastics.
Send them reference photos or swatches and samples of what fabrics and notions that you want to use and see what they come up with locally. I know one designer who had everything specified to the China factory on her swimwear collection and even sent them a sample of swimwear elastic. When they constructed her swimwear they substituted her swimwear elastic with what was essentially a “rubber band” type of elastic. It caused a fit issue with her collection and was a cheap and substandard elastic. She didn’t even know it had happened until her pattern maker took apart on of her factory made swimsuits on a redesign.

7. How much do they charge for a factory sample?

This price can vary depending on the complexity of the garment.
If it’s a pretty basic pattern block that is common in fashion then it could be $20 or less.
If it’s an original design they should be able to give you a ballpark estimate from a photo or drawing and description by email.
The average price that I’ve found for a factory sample seems to be right around $80. Standard Proceedure is to send them a pattern and prototype and they will send you a factory made garment.

8. What is their average turn around time on an order?

Planning ahead and allowing for all of the standard turn around time is a huge factor if you have seasonal items.

9. What other services do they offer?

Do you need anything else done to your garment that could be done at the factory? This can include screen printing, custom garment tags (vs the cheap plastic looking ones that scream low budget production!!) distressing, adding riveted buttons, zippers and so on can frequently be outsourced locally by the factory.

10. What is their policy on orders that are made wrong or what happens if you don’t get what you reasonably expected?

If you’re saying to your self, “damn, this seems a lot more complicated, expensive and time consuming, than I thought!” You’re right. It is a long and drawn out process, but it can be done. Contact me and I can help you through the process. Managing this yourself, as I said earlier is a big job and can result in huge losses if you don’t ask all the right questions or skip a step in an attempt to get your items made quickly.

Join my Clothing Designer Resources Group on Facebook for more information on how to go to market with your designs.  Continue reading

“Can We Talk?” Rock Fashion Radio Show Coming Soon!!

As some of you may know, Joan Rivers was my first A List Client back in 2011.

Joan Rivers and I

 

Working for Joan, rattled my soul, sealed the deal and launched my career as an A List Wardrobe Seamstress. If I can survive her, I can survive anything! She was the ultimate trial by fire client and I now choose to be inspired by and channel a woman who rocked the fashion world with her famous words “Can We Talk?”

Since then, I’ve worked for many celebrities that came thru Orlando and Tampa on tour, including most famously Sir Paul McCartney, who’s story landed me on the front page of my hometown newspaper!!

Front page News

Some of the bigger jobs I’ve had over the last few years, included making 17 costumes for Justin Bieber’s Believe film and doing some major work on 5 red dresses for Taylor Swift’s back up singers on her Red Tour.

Justin Bieber Believe Film Costumes

I’ve also done a lot of costume rigging for shows like Michael Jackson’s Immortal Cirque du Soleil World Tour, Pink, Rihanna, Alicia Keys, Justin Timberlake, Bruno MarsMiley Cyrus, Usher and even got into Marilyn Manson’s Pants!

My A list work led to a job at Universal Theme Parks as Costume Fabrication Specialist where I worked on entertainer costumes including the most legendary “Invisibility Cloak” featured in the Beedle Bard show at Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley. Having a hand in making that was epic!

In my spare time, I spent an epic weekend last spring on a short tour of Florida festivals, courtesy of my friends with Volbeat. They needed some backdrop repairs and allowed me to tag along from RockFest to Rockville. I had an amazing moment with Billy Duffy of The Cult and had the opportunity to discuss a piece of his stagewear that I did a replica of for Cult Revolution, a tribute band.

Bruce Tindle wearing the Cult Replica vest I made

Bruce Tindle wearing the Cult Replica vest I made

One thing lead to another and through a series of FORTUNATE events, golden connections and rock networking, almost a year later, I’ve now been offered my own Rock Fashion Radio Show as Psycho Seamstress on Rock Rage Radio!! I will be reviewing Rock Fashion, interviewing Stagewear Designers and Rock Stars who dress to impress from coast to coast regarding their duds of choice.
We will also be launching  a nationwide band image makeover contest with some huge prizes!
So stay tuned and don’t be caught in public looking anything less than famous!

Rock Rage Radio

 

Rock Rage Radio

Psycho logo

Like Psycho Seamstress on Facebook!

How I cured my procrastination 30 minutes at a time!

Do It Now!

WARNING This post includes curse words and concepts that may be considered offensive to some of you hyper sensitive types, but the story just wouldn’t be the same if I censored it, so you’ve been warned!! If you can bring yourself to skip the curse words you might even learn something from a Psycho!!

As a work from home artist and creative type person, keeping myself on track or ahead of schedule, can be a challenge! I found myself in ruts of procrastination throughout many phases of my clients projects and taking the rest of the day off when there were plenty of productive things I could be doing to stay on track.

Recently I met this amazingly hysterical Lass from Belfast, Ireland. Our group of friends stumbled upon her in a hotel bar.  She too, was an artist and sculptor, who made her living installing her giant works of art into hotels and other public venues all over the world!

She had some amazing stories to tell, cursed like a sailor, drank like a fish and quickly became the center of attention. We decided to kidnap her and took her out to dinner with us. One of her crass saying had us all roaring when she talked about her down time, she called it her “fuck the dog” time. LOL  What she meant by that, was taking time out to do whatever she wanted… Take a nap, watch tv, masturbate or other self indulgent time wasted.

We got into a conversation about her recent work with a therapist who she credited with curing her procrastination. My ears perked up… I do that!!! She said she’d get struck by manic cleaning episodes, take to long to get started on things, diddle around and waste too much time on unproductive things. (I think we all do that!!)

She began to explain how the therapist made her schedule her day in 1/2 hour incriminates including her “fuck the dog” time. Her day looked like this: She’d get up at a certain time, then spend 30 minutes in each room and schedule tasks in 30 minute increments.

Starting with 30 minutes in the bath room, doing her business, getting washed up, teeth brushed, showered and then clean up the bathroom, with any extra time so she wouldn’t go on a crazy cleaning binge later, when she needed to be doing something else.

Then she’d move into the kitchen, making breakfast, coffee, doing dishes, take out trash and then misc cleaning, until her time was up.

Wow. I’m thinking two rooms cleaned and all that stuff accomplished in an hour and it’s not even 9am!

Then she’d move into her work area. Again scheduling 30 minutes per task and a few set times in the day to “fuck the dog” for 30 minutes.

Wow. I thought. This might be just the thing I need to get out of my rut, so I tried it!

Day One:
My normal wake up time is between 6-7 am since I moved into a house with a lake view and opted for sheer curtains instead of my usual vampire black out drapes. I also live off a very busy street so the sounds of traffic are ongoing. I average about 4-5 hours of sleep and find it hard to get much more than that, but that’s another problem!! It has actually changed my work schedule quite a bit, because once the light comes in, I can’t sleep anymore. I would frequently lay around in bed for hours after waking.

I decided to designate my first 30 minutes to checking my email and social media while still in bed. Next, I spent 30 minutes writing from my phone or laptop. This can be anything from my email journal, list making, blog posts, updating my social media with recent photos, etc. I started doing this every morning. I also set up some 30 minute alerts between now and when my client arrived.

Here’s how they went…
30 minutes in the bathroom, instead of just doing my normal morning pee, then moving on, I would try spending 30 minutes in the bathroom. Since I had a client coming over I decided to put make up on, brush teeth, take vitamins, then spent the rest of the time cleaned up and organized a few things I’d been PROCRASTINATING doing. Time well spent.

30 minutes in the kitchen was spent preparing fresh and healthy foods that have cured some of my prior health issues and have now become part of my normal diet. Taking the rest of the time to clean up after myself and organize a few things before I left the kitchen, worked out great. Living in my little mother in law suite, away from my other roommates, I tended to leave dishes for later, because they weren’t in anybody’s way, so this was good for me to do it now!

30 minutes in the closet. LOL picking out clothes for the day, folding and organizing what didn’t make the cut and cleaning up other clothes that needed to be put away, then I spent the rest of the time getting dressed and accessorized for the day.

When I compare the segments above, to my normal schedule, I could have gone to the bathroom, ate and gotten dressed in probably about 30 minutes but by taking the time to do a few extra things, I felt like I was taking better care of myself and doing some much needed housework I would have left for later, it seemed like a really good use of my time and gave me a good feeling.

Next it was time to work…
I currently have 4 client project going and another new client was arriving in 2 hours. So I decided to spend 30 minutes on each project I had. I felt like I got a lot done on each project and had everything prepared for the next phase of work.

The bulk of my day was spent one on one with a client, who was paying me by the hour for Pattern making and sewing lessons. One of the things I try to do is schedule my work, so that I am making $xx per day vs. working an 8 hour day. This way I know I can get my bills paid, etc. Many times after I’ve hit my minimum, I will stop there, even though I’ve got other work I could be doing. After my client left, I may have just put in a movie or something, but I really had a lot of stuff I SHOULD do, I looked at the clock and decided since I still had several hours left in the day, it was time to do something other than “fuck the dog” for the rest of the day!

I cooked myself a health meal vs something quicker and took the time to sit down at my table and eat like a normal person! This took more like an hour, but it was again, time well spent and something I don’t always do for myself.

I spent 30 minutes working on this blog post.
-30 minutes working on a clients project,
-30 minutes going thru emails, returning phone calls and checking all my social media again

Wow. I got a lot more done today than I might have if I hadn’t managed my time as well.

By conquering small tasks and committing to spend 30 minutes on each, it wasn’t so daunting to work on the long list of things I NEEDED to do and SHOULD be doing. I felt good and accomplished.

Years ago, I learned something at a time management seminar, that helps me distinguish what is more important by breaking everything into 4 categories:

1. Urgent and Important = something that must be done NOW, go to the bathroom, show up to meet with a client, work on a project, something you must do now or today because its “on fire”, something positive will happen if you do this today, something negative could happen if you don’t do it

2. Urgent but not as important = something you must do by the end of the day, EAT, work on a project, return a phone call or email, something good will happen if you do it, something bad might happen if you don’t

3. Not Urgent but Important = return other misc phone calls and emails that keep your business and personal life going, order supplies, update social media, pay bills, mow the lawn, do housework, be social, doing these things keep your life on track, something bad will happen eventually, if you don’t to do these things

4. Not urgent or important, fuck the dog, play on Facebook, have a beer, play a video game, watch a movie, etc, nothing bad will happen if you don’t do any of these things, but one does need some down time for play and relaxation!

Here’s that chart they gave us at a $800 per person Time Management Seminar I attended!!

When I find myself wanting to take the rest of the day off, I think about what tasks are on my To Do List and make sure everything “on fire” is done, then go to items on list number 2 and 3 and spend 30 minutes to get me back on track or even ahead of the game. I must admit I couldn’t bring myself to actually write out my day ahead of time, because I am too defiant against having a schedule, but I do make lists of what needs to be done and the new concept of spending 30 minutes working on each task, especially the big ones, really worked well for me.

Try it and let me know how it works out for you!!